Guitar Setup

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Acoustic Guitar Bridge Saddle Slot

Breedlove J350

The Breedlove Atlas J350

      I recently purchased another guitar (used), and the deal was so sweet I really couldn't refuse. I already have a Breedlove Atlas dreadnought and a Breedlove Cascade concert with western red cedar top. I happened upon a Breedlove Atlas J350 Jumbo (which is no longer in production), on Craigslist and figured it was worth taking a look. Aside from the excessively high action, the original battery in the onboard pickup preamp and never having been setup properly, it had been played very little.


      After playing the guitar, I decided to make an offer, figuring if it didn't turn out like I wanted I could turn it over and make a couple of hundred bucks. Sure enough, the owner accepted my offer and away I headed home to the shop. As with all my acoustic guitars, the first upgrades are new bone nut and saddle. With an Engleman spruce top and curly maple laminate sides and back (my knowledge of and opinions on the new laminates for acoustic guitars is in another post), I chose unbleached bone to match the finish and fashioned the new nut and saddle.

Unbleached Bone Nut
      The new nut went well, leaving plenty of bone mass to aide in string to neck coupling. When I went to work on the saddle, I noticed the old one fit a little sloppy in the bridge saddle slot and teetered back and forth, but I didn't pay much attention to it knowing I would get the perfect fit I wanted as I shaped the new one. I selected my bone blank, cut, shaped and compensated it accordingly. I installed it in the slot and strung the guitar in great anticipation of an even better sounding J350. I took it to the studio, plugged it into my acoustic guitar amp and wouldn't you know it, uneven string response.


In The Bottom of The Slot

Bridge Saddle Slot Problem

      I loosened the strings, pulled the saddle and checked it. Please visit Accu-Tech Guitar Repair LLC for flatness with a straight edge. Everything looked good, but when I plugged it in again, uneven string response. After going through this process several times, I was beginning to get a little fuzzy. Remembering that the new saddle fit really snug, I decided to lift the UST (under saddle transducer), out and check the saddle slot bottom. Passing one of my bridge slot bottom files over it a few times, all appeared to be OK, that is, until I took a scribe and checked the length of the slot and found a ridge on either side at the bottom. Now remember, the new saddle fits really well, yet the old one was sloppy. Because of the ridges in the edges of the slot at the bottom, the new saddle could not fit down on top of the UST properly.

Unbleached Bone Saddle

Why The Slot Was Defective

      As I pondered how this could happen, it dawned on me that because most all saddles are cut out on CNC machines, the plunge router bits wear out on their bottom edges and cause the bit to leave somewhat of a 'U' shape in the bottom of the slot. I went to work with a very small chisel and my slot bottom file and cut out the edges and leveled them with the file. I installed the saddle checking the new height to make sure my action was not too low. I took it to the studio, plugged it in and got perfect string to string response.

In Conclusion

      This is one area that is not covered in most articles about UST's and why they do not give even response. After this episode, you can bet I check EVERY bridge saddle slot in the bottom edges for ridges and imperfections on all UST installations on my customers guitars, especially when I'm making a new saddle to go along with the new pickup. I also keep two router bits, a 3/32" and a 1/8" that are ONLY for slot bottom leveling and removing ridges in the slot bottom. As of this article, I have used them many times and spend a LOT less time trying to get even string to string response during final testing. I hope this article will help you in your UST installations and problem solving...

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Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Acoustic Guitar Neck Angle



     Anyone who plays an acoustic guitar and has watched and felt the strings gradually rise on the upper fretboard around the 9th to 12th fret over a period of time can relate to this article. It happens so gradually that we may not even notice it at first, but as the action gets higher and the guitar becomes harder to play above the fifth to seventh frets, it becomes evident something is wrong.

      There are so many articles and opinions written on this topic about acoustic guitars it simply boggles the imagination, and most all of them have a valid point, at least to some degree. Although I've been repairing and setting up guitars since 1969, I have also spent a lot of hands on time making cabinets, furniture, building engines, mechanical repair, tool making, fabricating and the list goes on. My shop teacher was one of my best friends and the greatest guy I've ever known, my Dad. Having been born with an acute mechanical aptitude (which has been a big plus), I will attempt to forge an opinion based on 40 years of experiences that will offer fact based suggestions on how you can avoid this phenomena from happening to your guitar.

      Understand, that a neck reset is an extremely invasive procedure, it decreases the value of vintage guitars and is a LAST RESORT repair. At $400.00 to $750.00 for a neck reset (depending on who you ask), it simply out weighs the value of many guitars in the field these days. Besides, many guitars are constructed with epoxy based glues that are very difficult if not impossible to soften with steam for neck removal.

Acoustic Guitar Neck/Body Joints
      Every builder in the industry is aware of the possibility that their products, whether hand made or commercially built with CNC machines, may someday need a neck reset, and most are actively doing something about it. Some builders are using complete bolt on neck configurations with reset adjustments made with wooden shims. Some are using partial bolt on, partial glue on configurations. Then, this opens up a world of opinions on which is better for tone, dove tail neck joints or bolt on (that's another article). And last, most builders (hand made and commercial), have figured out how to compensate for settling wood by altering the ACOUSTIC GUITAR NECK ANGLE a few degrees and slightly raising the saddle height. The saddle height can be lowered as the wood 'settles', which is far cheaper than a neck reset and it saves the builders good name.

      Lets take a look at what you should know and what you can do to prevent your guitar from being subjected to a neck reset or replacing the guitar altogether.

Acoustic Guitar Care: What You Can Do
      Upon purchasing a new or used guitar, you should have the guitar setup. It may play great like it is, but the neck should be straight with only .003 to .010 thousandths of neck relief. Trust me, you cannot see these measurements with the naked eye and only a good guitar tech or luthier will have invested the kind of money in tools to take these measurements accurately. The straighter the neck is and the lower the plane of the strings above the fretboard (without 'fret buzz' while playing), greatly enhances the instruments ability to counteract string tension.

      Acoustic guitars are extremely sensitive to temperature and humidity and should be maintained at around 72 degrees fahrenheit and 40-50 percent humidity. It doesn't hurt to keep your solid body electric guitars along side of your acoustics either. This helps the wood maintain it's strength and keeps the sides of the body from over settling under string tension. Never submit your guitar to extreme heat or cold for extended periods of time, i.e., store it in the attic or leave it in the car over night in hot OR cold conditions. Can you play it outside during the summer? Of course. Hopefully, your venue will be shaded from the sun, simply keep the guitar in the shade. Do not 'shock' it moving it from A/C to outdoors. Leave it in the case for 10-15 minutes while it gradually changes temperature in the case and vice versa.

      String size is a huge factor. The larger the strings, the greater the string tension. Larger string diameters offer a bigger sound, but there is a trade off. Larger strings, .012-.053 (lights), start to move into the 180 lbs. of tension plus range of string tension. Medium strings, .013-.056 go even higher. Use as light a set of strings as you are comfortable with. It is more imperative to down tune guitars with larger strings if you are not going to play for a few days or even longer periods of time.

      Lastly, down tune from A 440 (or E), to E flat. Yes, I know, and I kicked and screamed over this one myself until I realized the benefits. On average, this reduces about 30 lbs. of tension on the guitar depending on the string size. If you are using smaller strings, it gives the guitar a deeper, bigger sound without using larger strings. If you're playing with a partner in a duo who also plays guitar, you may have some convincing to do, have them read this article. If you play with a keyboard player that has an electronic keyboard, no problem, this is an easy adjustment. I'm sure at this point you realize it changes the key of the songs you've learned. Put a capo on the first fret. You get your standard E tuning back but you still do not increase the tension on the neck, a simple matter of physics, and you retain the bigger sound from smaller strings.

In Conclusion
      I read an article once that said "all acoustic guitars will eventually require a neck reset"...... HORSE FEATHERS! There are only two things that validate that statement. Guitar designs and outdated NECK ANGLE specifications and poor owner care. A guitar built with a dove tail neck joint angle inclination and a taller saddle that anticipates a small amount of body side wood settling will last a lifetime with proper owner care. It's a simple matter of engineering and physics...

      For a related article you can read The Neck Angle "Value" by William Cumpiano.

      Also visit Accu-Tech Guitar Repair LLC

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Guitar Setup


 
A good guitar setup is one of the most critical issues that can make or break the overall guitar playing experience. If you are a beginning guitar player or student, it can mean the difference between a lifetime of playing enjoyment, or the guitar being laid down in frustration and pain after only a few weeks of trying to learn to play. For more 'seasoned' players, it can mean countless hours at the music store trying out guitars and hoping to find that one guitar that 'feels just right'.

      When you buy a new guitar, for some it is somewhat of an assumption that because it is new that the guitar plays the way it should right off the shelf. After all, that's the way it came from the manufacturer so it must be correct, right? Wrong! Most all manufacturers use what I call a 'safe' setup'. That is, it plays clean with no fret buzz, guaranteed. This means the action is usually a little high and every guitar the same model as the one you're trying out was setup the same way. The salesman may offer to set the guitar up as part of the purchase program and this is a good gesture. You will likely have to wait a while or return later to pick up your new guitar.

      I certainly wouldn't refuse to have the store guitar tech set the guitar up, after all, it is part of your purchase. But understand, a good setup most likely will not end here. A guitar setup is a delicate operation that requires a consultation with the player to learn what they are looking for in a setup. Discussion of all aspects of their playing style and choice of music is critical to rendering a setup that delivers the ease of playing and overall satisfaction of the experience.

             Learn More About Guitar Setups

      The bottom line here is, if you have never had your guitar setup by an independent (owns their own shop), guitar tech or luthier who is willing to sit down with you and detail a setup designed just for you, then you owe it to yourself to have at least one professionally performed setup. Guitar repair artisans understand that a setup 'settles in' and may require a subsequent adjustment within a few weeks and usually performs these minor adjustments while you wait.

      I'm sure a lot of you are setting up your own guitars and that is good and may work for you fine, but I can assure you that years of experience, hundreds of dollars in tools just to do a good setup and having performed hundreds of setups (if not thousands), will surprise even the best of those who perform their own setups.